The Teton Crest Trail traverses through one of the most majestic and magical mountain landscapes in America — Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming. With breathtaking views of jagged peaks, serene and sparkling alpine lakes, and vibrant meadows of wildflowers, you can’t help but feel elevated body and soul as you travel along this winding trail. You don’t need to take weeks or months to complete this hike, just a few short days, but the Teton Crest Trail is jam-packed with some of the best mountain scenery in the world.
During the first summer I spent in Alaska, I came across a small backpacking pamphlet that outlined the top 10 backpacking trips in America. The number one trail on the list was a trail I had heard of but was unfamiliar with…the Teton Crest Trail. Ecstatic that a trail in my beloved Tetons was number one, I pinned the article right next to my bed and have dreamed of visiting the beautiful places along that trail ever since.
Fast forward eight years, and I am now on the other side of the Teton Crest Trail with memories that I will forever treasure. After trying (and failing) three times to get the necessary permits for my dream trail, I finally succeeded in securing the itinerary I wanted. Months of planning and preparation were put into making sure that everything would be perfect.
Our party consisted of five hikers who had no idea what was in store along the way except what we could read on a topographical map and what we could see in pictures. Neither of those things even comes close to doing the Teton Crest Trail any justice.
This overview of the Teton Crest Trail will outline our route, starting from Rendezvous Mountain and exiting out of Paintbrush Canyon. We were able to complete the trail in four days and three nights, traveling a total of thirty-five miles through the most beautiful alpine landscape I’ve ever laid eyes on.
What You Need to Know About Hiking the Teton Crest Trail
- Permits are required for any backcountry camping in Grand Teton National Park.
- Learn about Bear Safety before you go, and plan on carrying bear-resistant canisters on your trip. These canisters can be rented from the permit station for no charge.
- To avoid Giardia and other diseases, properly filter all of your water while you hike.
- No campfires are allowed in the Grand Teton backcountry.
- One of the most popular topographical maps of Grand Teton is made by National Geographic. I dislike this map because it doesn’t mark trail distances between major landmarks along the way. I like to be able to look at the map and see what the mileage is between point A and point B, which is why I highly recommend the Earthwalk Press Topographic Map for Grand Teton National Park.
- Arrangements will need to be made for a shuttle car or taxi service (Teton Taxi 307-733-1506) to get you to the beginning of your hike. I would recommend parking a car at the Leigh Lake Trailhead (for when you exit the trail) and then shuttling your group to your starting point.
- Check the Jenny Lake Climbing Ranger trail updates blog for information on trail conditions and recommendations before your trip.
The Teton Crest Trail can be accessed by many different trails. This provides the opportunity to choose the route that is best for your skill level and the amount of time that you have to hike it. The entire trail runs from the Teton Pass on WY 22 and ends at String Lake via Paintbrush Canyon.
The Teton Crest Trail
Day One
We enjoyed stunning views of the surrounding peaks as we took the tram to the top of the 10,450-foot Rendezvous Mountain. The shack up there has vault toilets but NO running water, so be sure your water bottles are full before you get on the tram. Freshly made waffles can be purchased as a nice treat before you start hiking. I thought that the waffles were just okay, but it was nice to have a warm homemade snack before setting off on our 4-day adventure.
Anticipation, excitement, and a few nerves filled my body as we started walking down the trail, and the shack disappeared from view. There is something so magical, yet humbling, to have (hopefully) everything you need to survive in the wilderness packed in the backpack on your back. If you ever get the opportunity to take a backcountry trip, DO IT! It is incredibly satisfying to simplify your life and push your limits.
Take the trail that heads south from the shack (it is wide and looks more like a dirt road) and keep a lookout for signs that point you to Marion Lake in Grand Teton National Park. The trail begins to drop down into the valley behind Rendezvous Peak, which is a little depressing after gaining so much elevation via the tram!
After 4.1 miles of hiking up and down several valleys full of wildflowers, the trail officially meets up with the Teton Crest Trail. This was a big moment for me, as I had dreamed of hiking the Teton Crest for many, many years! I made it…it’s official!
From the junction with the Teton Crest Trail, we hiked another 2.1 miles to the spectacular Marion Lake. After all the ups and downs, not to mention the most gorgeous display of wildflowers I have ever seen, the lake was an incredibly welcome sight! We stopped for lunch and a little dip in the cool, clear water before continuing on.
After a small ascent up from Lake Marion, the trail leveled out and traveled across the beautiful tundra wilderness of the Teton Range. This was the first time we could see the Grand Teton since we had started hiking. Continuing on for 2.6 miles led us to Fox Creek Pass and the Death Canyon Shelf. This is where we called it a day and set up our camp with the most incredible views I’ve ever had!
Total Hiking Distance for Day One: 9.8 miles
Day Two
Anticipation for the second day of hiking helped me get my tired and achy body out of bed. Wow…another day of hiking up and down the mountain trails! My pack was only slightly lighter after eating one day’s worth of food, but those bear cans are so heavy and awkward anyway that it didn’t seem to make much of a difference.
To start out, the trail travels three miles along the dramatic cliffs of the Death Canyon Shelf. We felt like hobbits heading toward Mordor, with the mountain beckoning us to come closer! Standing here, it was crazy to think that by the end of the day, we would be standing on the other side of the Grand Teton. One of the coolest things about the Teton Crest Trail is how you can visually measure the distance of the trail by using the Grand as a reference point.
From the Shelf, you will have amazing views down into Death Canyon. Water is harder to find up here, so if you happen upon a running stream I would recommend topping off. The Mount Meek Pass marks the end of the Death Canyon Shelf. From here, we hiked another 2.9 miles down the Sheep Steps and into the Alaska Basin.
The Alaska Basin is technically Forest Service land, meaning that you can camp here without a hard-to-get Grand Teton National Park permit. Many people choose to overnight here among the spectacular mountain views and the pristine alpine lakes that dot the landscape.
We found the signage in the Alaska Basin to be slightly unclear and inaccurate. At one fork in the trail, the sign didn’t even mention the trail we needed to take to get to Sunset Lake and Hurricane Pass. We took a left at this fork (don’t go towards Mount Buck or the Basin Lakes).
A sign a little further down the trail said that it was only 0.5 miles to Sunset Lake (getting our hopes up!), and it ended up being closer to one mile up some steep switchbacks. Consult your map to make sure you are taking the right trail through this area.
Hungry and tired, when we finally made it to Sunset Lake, we shouted for joy!
While eating lunch at Sunset Lake, one thought loomed in the back of my mind…Hurricane Pass. The climb up the 10,400-foot Pass would be our final climb of the day, and it was a big one! Leaving Sunset Lake, the trail steadily climbs up the mountainside, providing phenomenal views of the surrounding area. After climbing higher and higher up the switchbacks, the trail eventually opens up to a barren tundra wilderness that leads to the top of the Pass.
No planning or preparation can prepare you for the top of the Hurricane Pass and THIS BREATHTAKING VIEW!
Continuing along the trail for another 1.3 miles takes you into the South Fork of Cascade Canyon and the camping zone where we stopped for the night. Unlike the Death Canyon Shelf camping zone, the South Fork has specifically marked campsites that you have to stay in. This could cause your hike to be a little longer than planned because you may have to travel until you can find an available site.
Total Hiking Distance for Day Two: 8.9 miles
When I hike this trail again, I will plan my route so that I go up and over Hurricane Pass (and the upcoming Paintbrush Divide) in the morning hours before the threat of afternoon thunderstorms. We were incredibly lucky that the weather was perfect, but I would not recommend going up and over the Pass if there is any chance of a thunderstorm in the area.
Day 3
With a huge day of hiking ahead, we set out bright and early. The South Fork of Cascade Canyon is a steady 4.8-mile descent from the top of Hurricane Pass to the Cascade Canyon Junction. I was glad to be traveling south to north on this section of trail because going the other direction is a long and strenuous hike up.
Cascade Canyon has a lot more water than any other section of the trail so far, with beautiful streams and waterfalls cutting their way through stunning meadows and majestic pine forests.
After exiting the South Fork of Cascade Canyon, it is time to enter the North Fork and hike the 2.7 miles to Lake Solitude. The North Fork doesn’t have as many trees or streams as the South Fork, but what it lacks in resources, it makes up for in amazing views! Be sure to turn around periodically to take in a whole new vantage point of the Grand Teton.
The crowning glory of Cascade Canyon, and quite possibly one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, is Lake Solitude. The stunning crystal clear water that often reflects the Grand Teton in the distance is worth a stop, no matter your schedule. This lake is popular, but we had no problem snatching up the best seat in the house, a peaceful and shady spot on the far side of the lake.
After a long and leisurely lunch, it was time to confront the beast in front of us…the 10,700-foot Paintbrush Divide. We had been studying the route from the lake, trying to decide at which point it cut up and over the mountain after we couldn’t see the distant trail anymore. It looks incredibly daunting from Lake Solitude, but with one foot in front of the other, we steadily began to climb.
After hiking up the rocky slopes of the Paintbrush Divide, with spectacular views in every direction, we reached a small meadow with a snow-fed stream and said goodbye to the Grand Teton. This is a great place to fill up your water bottles, enjoy the landscape, and congratulate yourself for making it up the hardest part of the Paintbrush Divide.
From here, it’s time to go up and over the Divide and descend into Paintbrush Canyon. The trail going down the Divide into Paintbrush Canyon is much shorter than the trail on the Cascade Canyon side…and it is also much steeper…and, might I add, scarier. I was glad to have the aid of my trekking poles to stabilize me on the steep and snowy sections of the trail.
Regardless of your skill level or the level at which you worry about things, here is a photo to give you an idea of the trail that descends from the top of the Paintbrush Divide down into Paintbrush Canyon.
To read a full and detailed report of the Paintbrush Divide and the Paintbrush Canyon trail, click here.
After hiking the 1.7 miles from the top of the Paintbrush Divide to Holly Lake, we settled in for our last night on the trail. We were lucky enough to snag a site in the Holly Lake camping area right next to a serene mountain meadow, complete with wildlife watching from our tents.
Total Hiking Distance for Day Three: 10.1 miles
Day Four
The last day on the Teton Crest Trail was bittersweet for me. On the one hand, I was really excited to shower and change into some clean clothes. On the other hand, I loved my experience on the trail and would have loved to stay among those mountains for a little longer. We got up early, packed up camp, and headed down Paintbrush Canyon.
From Holly Lake, it is 6.2 miles to String Lake on a trail that is primarily downhill. Take time to enjoy the beautiful scenery of Paintbrush Canyon and appreciate the phenomenal backcountry experience that the Teton Crest Trail provides!
As you exit Paintbrush Canyon, you will reach a fork in the trail. Take a left toward Leigh Lake/String Lake to get back to your car.
Total Hiking Distance for Day Four: 6.2 miles
Getting Here
From Jackson, head north on US-191 until you get to the Moose Junction. Take a left at the junction, pay the entrance fee at the entrance station, and then continue on for 10 miles until you see the road to North Jenny Lake on your left. Turn here and take a right at the stop sign to follow the road to the String Lake area.
The String Lake Trailhead is the first parking lot you will see. You can park here, but the Leigh Lake Trailhead will cut some hiking time off your trip. Continue driving to the parking lot at the end of the road — this is the Leigh Lake Trailhead. Leave your car here so that it is waiting for you when you exit the trail!
From the Leigh Lake Trailhead, you will need to shuttle yourself to the beginning of your hike. Our group had two cars among us, which made it easy for us to drive to Teton Village to start the trail. If you do not have a second car, arrangements with a taxi service will need to be made to get you to where you need to be.
Happy Trails!
More Grand Teton Trip Planning Information
Grand Teton Itinerary — a detailed hour-by-hour sightseeing schedule.
How to Get to Grand Teton — the best airports and roads in the area.
How Many Days Should I Spend in Grand Teton? — itinerary ideas.
The Best Time to Visit — what to expect during each month of the year.
Weather, Hours, and Closures — important weather info and common closures.
Where Should I Stay? — the best options in and around the park.
All About Camping — learn about the park’s campgrounds and how to get a site.
12 Things You Can’t Miss on Your First Visit to Grand Teton — the top 12 spots.
The Best Easy Hikes — the perfect trails for kids, wheelchairs, and beginners.
The Ultimate Grand Teton Trip Planning Guide — everything you need to know.
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I like your itinerary. I have once question, where did you stay on night 1, Death Canyon Shelf?
We stayed at the first campsite we found, toward the beginning of the shelf. There was a small stream and killer views of the Grand Teton and Death Canyon!
Hi Ash, very nice and informative write up!
Just a quick question, do you know a list of reliable water sources? I’m going late August and I heard the random streams may dry up. My itinerary is very similar to yours, any good fill up spots besides what you have mentioned?
Thank you so much!
I don’t know of a list, but there are some larger lakes and streams that run throughout the summer. We had a hard time finding water at the beginning of the Death Canyon Shelf…it did dry up while we were there! Marion Lake, Alaska Basin, South Cascade, Lake Solitude, Holly Lake, etc. all provide water along the trail.
Hiking south to north, I have heard some things that would indicate that the teton crest trail it is not nearly as scenic in the southern half as in the northern half. If so, at what point would you say the really epic scenery begins when hiking south to north?
So your typical Teton Mountains views are going to start as you pass Marion Lake. You’ll see them far in the distance. The Death Canyon Shelf is one place you’ll definitely want to hit. That being said, south of Marion Lake had one of the best wildflowers I’ve ever seen EVER!
Hey! Amazing post, thanks! Planning to hike the Teton Crest Trail in the end of June.
Will it be dangerous because of the possible snow?
Is the path well marked?
Do you think we can book the campsites next month or in the beginning of March (once I will know the exact days) and still be able to find available spots (we are only 2)?
End of June will likely still have snow, so be sure to have the proper equipment/experience if you decide to go then. The reservable campsites may already be booked. Walk-in sites are available but you’d have to be flexible on dates and you wouldn’t have your permits until you were there in person. I’d look into making a reservation ASAP!
Thank you for post!
What exact dates did you hike the TCT? Under your title it says Nov? but no snow?
We are looking for a epic hike last weekend in Sept 2018. Will the TCT typically be clear of snow then, barring the freak storm?
thanks,
K.
I went the end of July/beginning of August. The weather was perfect, although it’s not uncommon to get thunderstorms. End of September will likely have some snow in the higher elevations of the trail. Seems like it always snows in the Tetons around Labor Day :) Depends on the year of course!
Hi,
Is the trail generally easy to stay on? Or are there some areas that are not marked or obvious and need to be using compass and map?
Big thanks,
O
The trail is pretty easy to follow, but you will definitely want a good map to stay on course. The Alaska Basin can be a little confusing because several trails converge in the area, so a map comes in handy!
What was the temperature nighttime? We will hike August 10 – 15.
How heavy was you backpack?
Also,
I realize not everyone hikes at the same speed but do you recall how many hours per day you trekked?
thank you,
Nighttime temps can often dip into the 30’s or 40’s…it can be very cold up there. I try to keep my pack around 20-25 pounds or so and we were on the trail most of the day. I was slow because I was taking a million pictures!
Thank you so much for sharing! I am using your review to help plan my trip for early September, but I’m hoping for a five day (solo) hike. Is there any gear you wished you had taken with you but didn’t? Thanks!
Hmmm….I think it’s easy to overpack and bring too much rather than forget something, but the one thing I always tell people to prepare for is some crazy weather. Especially in September. It almost always rains in the afternoon so definitely bring a good rain jacket. It can get really chilly at night too. Carry more water than you think you’ll need and be sure to bring lots of calorie-dense food. The one thing I wish I would have brought with me was some flip flops or sandals (light ones!) to walk around camp in. All I wanted to do at the end of the day was take off my hiking boots, but I didn’t have anything to wear that would allow my feet to breathe. Bear spray is a must. It’s helpful to pack your pack twice before your trip…first a week or two before you go and then re-pack it a few days before you go. The second time around I always cut out more stuff and realize that I don’t really need all that I had originally packed. It helps keep my pack weight low!
Hope that helps!!
This is late July, and the rangers are saying, No way, without ice axes and route finding skills. I had planned this trip for a year, but a late snow has melted all my plans and dreams. Be advised: If you’re thinking about hiking over the high passes, make your plans for August!
That’s crazy Tod! This year had exceptionally high snowpack…many areas of many mountainous parks were closed longer than normal. I’m so sorry to hear about your plans :(
I along with my hiking partner just finished the TCT and valley loop. We started on July 10 and finished on July 15. Alaska Basin was a map reading challenge but possible to navigate. Paintbrush Divide required an ice ax and crampons….safety was paramount in this area. Basically, I believe the trail is possible but having the equipment and map reading skills are vital to your own safety. It was an amazing trip accentuated by the summiting the Grand on July 20.
Sounds amazing!! Way to go!!
Thanks Ash! Once we got there, the Rangers were very helpful in working with us to create alternative plans. We hiked Death Canyon, Cascade Canyon, and parts of South and North Forks on the TCT. Solitude Lake was still frozen over. Many people had to change their plans.
I’m glad you got some good hiking in! I can’t believe Lake Solitude is still frozen over….I can’t recall a year that it’s been frozen over this late in the season. Thanks for the update!
Thank you for posting such an informative article, this has been such a help! Did you have any problem with bear along the way?
Nope! We only saw one while we were on the trail and it wasn’t interested in us at all. Just be sure to keep your bear canister far enough away from your tent so that you don’t attract any critters at night :)
Thanks for your informative and encouraging blog. My wife and I will be hiking the TCT in the latter part of this coming July. We are used to hiking on the Appalachian Trail, and my main concern is the altitude. Should altitude sickness be a concern? How much more difficult is it to hike at that altitude?
You will notice a difference with the altitude, but as long as you know the signs of altitude sickness and can take it slow if needed you should have a great time! If you can plan in a day or two before your hike to spend time in the area that will definitely help. Have a fabulous time on the trail!!
I am doing this trip this august for the eclipse with a buddy. would you say the landscape on day two has good open vistas and views of the tetons? where did you end up around 11am on day 2?
Ummm if you stuck around the Death Canyon Shelf you’d have good open views, but once you drop down into the Alaska Basin you’ll be much more surrounded by mountains. Coming out of Alaska Basin and up onto Hurricane Pass it opens up again, so it really just depends on where you will be camping that night and how much ground you need to cover that day. I would stay on the shelf if you can!
Hi! I’m going to Tetons at the end of June. I see its too cold for much of the teton crest trail but was wondering if any parts of the trail might work for late June that we could make a 1-2 night camping trip.
Hi Emily,
The further you go back into any canyon, the more snow you’ll encounter at that time of year. But…I’ve definitely hiked my way through many of the trails in those mountains in late June so it can be done. If you don’t want to camp in the snow, I would suggest a campsite closer to the beginning of the trail {such as Phelps Lake or Lower Paintbrush} and then dayhiking further if you still want to explore. I would definitely just monitor the Jenny Lake Ranger Blog {that I link to in this post} as your trip gets closer to determine which trails you would feel comfortable navigating! Have fun!
Ash
Can you recommend a transportation solution from Jenny Lake back to Coal Creek where we are beginning our trip. Open to paying for a private transporter.
Hi Christopher, the only option I’m aware of is hiring a taxi. And I do suggest setting it up so that you leave your car at Jenny Lake so that when you get off the trail you don’t have to worry about getting transportation back to Coal Creek. Have fun!
Great trip report and guide. Thanks! What are the pros and cons to hiking the TCT in early August versus mid to late August versus mid to late September? Is there a time of year that you would recommend?
It’s hard to say…. I generally would say not to go any earlier than mid-July, but you may still hit snow early August (we did). Other than the snow on the Paintbrush Divide, the weather was perfect at the beginning of August. Thunderstorms are going to be an issue anytime during the month of August, so you’ll definitely want to keep that in mind as you plan your itinerary. I personally would hesitate to go mid-late September just because it’s not that uncommon for there to be snow in the higher elevations by then!
My friends and I are planning on doing this hike the first or second week in August 2017. I have a non-freestanding tent and was wondering if the ground would accommodate all the stakes necessary to pitch it, or is it too rocky? I would love to know what tent you used for this hike.
The ground is pretty well suited for stakes. Most of the camping spots you’ll be in along the trail are ones that have been used over and over and are already established, so I don’t think you’ll have a problem staking your tent into the ground. I used “old trusty” when I completed the trail….it’s a Kelty Grand Mesa and everything was great :) You’ll love this trail….it’s incredible!!
Thanks! We are pretty excited
Hi! My husband and I will be doing the Teton Crest Trail in August. We are planning to get a walk in permit. Did you book for permits in advance? If not, do you have any suggestions how to get a walk in permit for backcountry camping. Also, what was the weather like? Thank you
Hey April,
The Teton Crest Trail is amazing — you will love it! I reserved my permits in January and we hiked the trail the beginning of August. We weren’t able to have the flexibility that is required if you are trying for a walk-in permit. My advice is to get there as early as possible and to have multiple itineraries already planned out (plan A, plan B, and plan C haha) to accommodate whatever they have available for you that day. The weather was fantastic while we were there, but we were very lucky. Usually you’ll hit afternoon thunderstorms that time of year so I would plan to not be hiking over Paintbrush Divide or Hurricane Pass in the afternoons like we did. That is the one thing I would change about my itinerary, just because we very easily could have been caught in some dangerous storms while hiking above the treeline.
Ash
So this sounds amazing! Do you have to camp in a backcountry campsite? Or can you find a beautiful spot to lay your head?
Hey Chelsea, for backcountry camping in the park you will need a permit and are restricted to camping within certain camping “zones” along the trail. The only exception there is if you stay in the Alaska Basin because that is technically not part of the national park. I hope that helps!